In many ways, the Pacific Coast Highway along Big Sur is one of the worst places to ride a motorcycle. There are
many reasons that this is true, but first and foremost is the jaw-dropping beauty of place. It is simply impossible not
to gawk through every turn, and if you're looking at the scenery, you're not looking at the road. And what a road it is,
with thousand foot sheer drops, fog, intermittent patches of wet and gravel, and a slew of equally distracted tourists.
Mistakes made here can easily turn fatal. Fortunately, there are many spectacular waysides...
...affording views like this one.
The coast itself is primarily rocky, but it is frequently interrupted...
...by gorgeous swathes of deserted beach.
Highway 1 hugs the coast for about 20 miles, before turning inland just north of Andrew Molera State Park. Here,
the topography changes from treeless, windswept promontories, to lush forest. I carried on for another 10 miles
before arriving at Pfeiffer Big Sur State Park. The lodge just inside the park entrance was nearly deserted, so I
had my breakfast in front of the fire, then headed out to explore the park. The trail I chose began in a lush stand
of California Redwood...
A park sign warns hikers of mountain lion in the park. Apparently, they have a taste for children.
In the presence of these towering giants, it's only natural to cast one's gaze continually upwards,
but the forest floor is of equal interest and beauty.
This fallen Redwood, covered in moss,
and these three, artfully positioned leaves,
was where I encountered this brilliant creature.
Gaining altitude, the trail climbs through a forest of oak, sycamore, cottonwood,
maple, alder, and willow.
After a while, I came across this stand of conifer, whose uppermost branches were untouched, but whose trunks...
...were entirely carbonized by forest fire.
The blackened wood was shiny and reflective, as if it were made of metal.
I followed the path for a couple of miles, then had a short nap in the sun.
Refreshed, I returned to the lodge, collected Brünhilde, and continued south. After a few miles, the highway emerged
from the forest and continued along the coast.
This stretch of the PCH has many lovely bridges.
Although it is less than a hundred miles from Monterey to San Simeon, with so much to see, the ride took all day.
After several stops along the way, I arrived at the second "Pfieffer" park in Big Sur, Julia Pfieffer Burns State Park.
It's famous waterfall, one of the few that drains directly into the Pacific Ocean, may be reached directly from the road,
or by way of this tunnel...
...from which one emerges onto a dramatic, cliffside path, and is presented with this stunning view of the falls.
Following the path leads to a perfectly positioned bench...
...with spectacular views to the north...
...as well as the south.
For the lucky few who find it deserted, it is a very special perch.
By the time I left, the sun was sinking fast,
transforming the water into liquid gold.
Before long, the sun had set,
and the fog began to roll in...
as the last, sublime traces of Big Sur,
faded into the crepuscular light.
