Big Bend

My last major destination is a legendary one.

Big Bend National Park. It surpasses my lofty expectations.

There is little to say but much to wonder at.

The Mule Ears formation, for instance,

or desert vegetation.

Some geological formations typical of the region.

Sotol vista affords sweeping views to the west.

Santa Elena canyon and her thousand foot cliffs can be seen in the distance.

The Chisos mountains.

I spend the night on the other side of this mountain at the Chisos Lodge,

high in the Chisos basin.

Terlingua

Terlingua ghost town.

Looks like my schedule, such as it was, has changed. I was planning to take Brünhilde east, all the way to Miami.
But her back tire is shot from 3500 hard miles, and she's got a new home just up the road. It would be cruel to press
the old girl any further. She can winter in West Texas while I fetch supplies back in New York. If I leave the bike in
Marfa, I'll need a battery charger. Ghost town or not, I manage to find CycleTek.

CycleTek is owned and operated by Ralph, a highly self-sufficient individual who also happens to know a lot about
KTM's. I'm twenty miles from the Mexico border and the desert stretches for more than one hundred miles in every
direction. Other than Terlingua, the nearest town is Alpine some eighty-three miles to the north. So it stands to rea-
son that Ralph has a trickle charger with a US cigarette lighter adapter in stock. I pay the man forty bucks. Brilliant.

Ralph is kind enough take me out in his Polaris on a tour of the grounds. Starting on the valley floor,

we follow this road,

up.

The view looking north.

Sometimes Ralph gives offroad tours for bikers and campers using this well-conceived structure as a meeting point
or campsite. Those lucky enough to camp here get this view south. We continue on,

down this superbly treacherous road.

Ralph points out some Cholla,

scourge of the Chihuahuan desert. I thank him for the charger, then double back to Lajitas for my gear. Suddenly,
my trip is almost over. I don't know if I'm disappointed or relieved.

But the new plan makes too much sense, so I adapt.

Lajitas

I'm tired, so I decide to take the day off, but what to do in Lajitas? It head over the the golf course to check it out.

When I get there, the track is deserted so I decide to take a turn. Complaining about the cavity-backed Nike's on
offer for rental, the pro was kind enough to lend me his Titleist blades. I still missed my Mizuno MP-32's, but at
least I had real sticks.

Having not played in several months my expectations were low. Surprisingly, I began the round with a solid drive,
in the center of the fairway. After an indifferent second, and a poor chip, I was able to drain a ten-footer for par.

I missed the next two short par putts, but it was a good start. On the par 5 4th, I hit a solid drive to the left side of
the fairway. My second was a well struck shot which came to rest a few yards short of the drainage area in front
of the green. I chipped five feet from the hole, an easy birdie,

that I missed left. It was a great opportunity, utterly wasted. The next hole was this difficult par 3, 170 yards uphill,
with a 17mph crosswind. I clubbed up and hit a low, boring 5-iron, but I couldn't see the ball from the tee-box.

When I drove up to the green, I was met with the lovely sight of a No.8 Pro-V1 five feet to the left of the pin. It was
the shot of the day and another birdie try.

And another miss. Alas, it was not meant to be. The sixth is another difficult hole of 449 yards. My excellent drive
caught the left side of the uphill fairway, then bounded right, rolling out to here.

To the left of the green lay certain death. I wisely aimed right of the flag, and was rewarded. My striped 5-iron found
the putting surface, but it was more than thirty feet from the hole. I needed three putts and gave another away. The
course showed it's real teeth on the next hole. Beside the cart path, I came upon this dead Javelina.

Javelina are a wild boar found throughout West Texas.

Viewed locally as pests and road hazards, I suspect they also make a delicious pappardella ragut. The next hole,
a par 5,

has this dramatic tee-shot. I'm lucky enough to hit a good one, which rises up over the hills of Mexico before
landing far below in the center of the fairway. Unfortunately, my luck ends here. I bogey the hole, then double the
next for a disappointing 43 on the front.

Still, the views can't be beat. The Rio Grande, with Mexico on the left bank.

Things begin to really unravel. I scramble for three bogeys in a row before losing a ball at this par 3.

It leads to my second double of the day. I take a moment to collect my composure,

while taking note of several of the interesting flora of the region. Red cactus,

Ocotillo, living barbed-wire,

and barrel cactus are all abundant.

I par the next hole, but it's no use. I limp home in 47 for a 90. Ah, what could've been. Still, I'm happy to have hit
some good shots.

A day at the Lajitas golf course is time well spent.

The Departed

Excuse me, I think that's KTM calling about their new ad campaign.

A supermodel with purpose. I decide to take a walk,

down to Lajitas cemetery.

Lajitas was an old border crossing, used by indians, bandits, and prospectors.

Many of the grave markers are unreadable today.

It was in the town of Griffin, in the year of '65...

To those of y'all that don't know, you better ask somebody.